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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. However, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.